Tasting Notes From March 2004

3000th Tasting Note Milestone

Loring Wine Company
2001 Pinot Noir
Garys' Vineyard Santa Lucia Highlands
From a 375ml split. I couldn't decide what to open to mark the milestone of 3000 tasting notes, so I opted for two wines - 2001 and 2002 splits from Brian Loring. The Garys' weighed in at 14.2% alcohol. Translucent ruby in the glass with clear purple edges. On the nose I noticed caramel, toasted oak along with cola and cedar. The palate was marked by tangy cranberry and black cherry fruit. The finish is long on cranberry fruit with rather piercing acidity. Citrus. Nice complexity. $42.00

Loring Wine Company
2002 Pinot Noir
Rosella's Vineyard
From a 375ml split. Ah, tasting note number 2999 and 3000. I found the nose a bit closed compared to the Garys' initially. More of a perfumed, and spicy oak aroma. Cola, rich red fruit with lower acidity. Perhaps a bit less nuanced than the Garys' but superior in balance. Great length. With a little more time, the nuance might arrive. Kudos! Brian, this is great stuff. Mona digs it. $42.00

”Cantankerous Wines” at Caravelle

J. J. Christoffel Erben
2002 Riesling
Urziger Wurzgarten Mosel Saar Ruwer
Zingy nose, like racy tropical fruit. Slightly sweet, but the acidity makes it all come together. Lemon-lime flavors late. This is a delicious little Riesling and a real crowd pleaser. $20.00

Donnhoff
1990 Riesline
Nahe Niederhauser Hermannshohle
Strong petrol and glue on the nose. Resin, lemon. Mostly dry. Tangy, lemon and pine finish. Ech. I don't get it.

Freiheit Langwerth von Simmern
1998 Riesling
Spatlese Erbacher Marcobrunn
Prettier nose than its older sibling and much lighter in color. Some petrol along with ginger. Interesting nose. Decent acidity with modest sweetness. Secondary flavors of hot wax, pineapple. The sweetness grows with each sip. Decent, but I wouldn't buy it.

Kastner Simon
1990 Riesling
Pfalz Auslese Freinsheimer Oschelskopf
Light petrol, tangy acidity. Medium-sweet lemon-line flavors. Tangerine finish. Rather youthful and surprising.

Chateau Rayas
1998 Chateuneuf du Pape
Pignan Reserve
Pale, and Pinot-like appearance. Hints of cordovan leather and haze. Kirsch liqueur, cedar, sweet wood smoke, strawberry, alcohol, and medicine on the nose. Slightly hard and medicinal palate. Out of balance and unimpressive.

Jean Michel Gerin
1996 Cote Rotie
Le Grande Places
Deep color with no fading. Soy sauce, meat, band-aid, sweet bacon, olive, cinnamon, Syrah fruit. Fruity, yet not. Masculine. Dark, slightly hard fruit. Thick. Hickory. Late acidity. A bit short if we are counting flaws, but I kinda like this for the price John paid. $25.00

Argiano
1999 Solengo
IGT Toscano
Open 24-hours. Mint, eucalyptus on the nose. Classy smelling, more like Cabernet or a Bordeaux varietal than anything else. Rich, a bit tannic. I might place this as high quality Bordeaux. This is a bit different, though I am having trouble finding words to describe it. Apparently a blend of equal parts Cabernet, Sangiovese, Merlot, and Syrah. Nice. My wine of the night.

Elio Grasso Gavarini
2002 Nebbiolo
Langhe
Weird nose that reminded some of carbonic maceration. I can see that, but it also smelled a bit like key-lime pie to me. Full-bodied, monolithic, but missing in the middle. Seems like a decent quaff. What's the price on this?

Eneo
2001 Toscano
IGT
Tannic smelling, clearly barrique aged. Dry herbs suggest some portion Sangiovese. Rich, decent plum, red, and black fruit. I'm not unhappy to have a bottle of this in the cellar. $26.00

Freiheit Langwerth von Simmern
1971 Riesling
Spatlese Rauenthaler Baiken
Bug spray, oil, and petrol nose. Just doesn't smell appetizing. Salty brine, tea. Ech.

Cal-Cabs Blind at Campisi’s

Huia
2002 Gewurztraminer
Marlborough
Not blind - Characteristic Gewurztraminer nose smells like the wine will be a little sweet, kiwi, lychee fruit. Only a bit sweet on the palate with tangy acids. Rainier cherries and white fruits. Fairly nice. Finish is slightly tangy and tart. Others were surprised how un-Alsatian it was. $16.00

Kistler
2001 Chardonnay
Dutton Ranch Russian River Valley
Blind White 1 - no doubt as to what grape this is based on the nose. Toasty, charred oak with an underlying smoky melon and pear flavor. Initially promising on the palate with white fruit and butterscotch. The wine finishes rough and oaky however. Does possess decent richness and persistence. I was convinced it was a fairly high-quality producer.

Karl Lawrence
2000 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Blind Red 1 - Slightly raw oak nose, along with mint, menthol, cedar and liqueur. Zachary commented on some volatile acidity on the mid-palate. I perceived this more as a raw, slightly green tannin finish. Rich red and black currant fruit. Coffee. Rather tasty, but I like the nose best. May be upside here. $45.00

Neal
2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Blind Red 2 - Somewhat fragrant cedar, red currant, but something seems to be on the nose. Velvety tannins envelope the mouth. While the tannin is sweet it is also intense. A bit one-dimensional. Is it expensive? This shows to be 100% Cabernet and 15.2% alcohol.

Viader
1998 Viader
Napa Valley
Blind Red 3 - A touch tawny and aged looking in the glass. The nose suggests this is a meritage blend. John Kight described it as "bitter violets" and that seemed like an apt description to me. Cassis liqueur. Has a sweet attack but comes up a bit short. The nose also shows an edge of astringency or greeness. Okay.

Far Niente
1998 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Blind Red 4 - From the nose alone I would have guess this was a mid-1990s vintage California Cab. Weeds and tobacco on the nose. Rather soft in comparison to many wines tonight. Red currant fruit. Not bad, but a bit lacking in structure and stuffing. Kind of appalling how soft this is given its common reputation.

Leeuwin Estate
1992 Cabernet Sauvignon
Margaret River
Blind Red 5 - Earth is the first thing I noticed on the nose. Tawny color. Clear, rusty edge with a deep garnet center. Dark berry fruit, coffee, toffee. Hmmm? Bit short. This doesn't really do anything for me.

B.R. Cohn
1999 Cabernet Sauvignon
Olive Hill Sonoma Valley
Blind Red 6 - Sweet nose - perhaps mountain fruit without the structure? Red berries, cedar, kool aid. Powdered sugar. "Bright red fruit." Balanced, creamy palate. Actually really light, soft, and simple. Surprising that this is so young. Hmmm.

Sinskey
1998 RSV
Napa Valley
Blind Red 7 - Labeled as "NL" - Next to Last. Bordeaux-like nose smells old world. Medium-full bodied with suggestions of rust, cedar, red currant fruit. The color suggests a bit of age, as does the sediment. While the nose may say "old world" the alcohol and liqueur quality suggest new world. Zachary described it as "ashey" which I could kind of perceive. This has 20% Cabernet Franc in the blend, along with Merlot and Cabernet. Clearly an off year again.

Paloma
2001 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
Blind Red 8 - Now we are getting somewhere. Nice nose, just smells wonderful, like rich, sweet candy and chocolate. Balanced, seamless, sweet fruit on the palate. Large-scaled but not tannic. Ample candied red (and black?) fruit. Brown sugar. This seems softer than my recollection of the Merlot. Damn fine. Yummy. Num-Nums.

Domaine Pierre Amiot et fils
1997 Morey St. Denis
Les Millandes Premier Cru
Ruby, translucent color. The cork was wet and showed mold, so this seeped at some point. Initially has a funky nose like psychadelic moss…or lime zest and moss. This blew-off some to reveal light candy cherry fruit and some earth. Not bad. $20.00

Etude
2001 Pinot Noir
Napa Valley
This wine was served slightly warm which may have been detrimental. The nose shows a touch of Brett in the form of horse hair. Dark berry fruit with a touch of damp earth. On the palate and in the glass the wine shows a bit of effervesence, like some excess carbon dioxide. On the attack, the wine has a prickly texture from the effervesence, along with red plum fruit. Decent weight and concentration. Seemed to improve slightly in the glass. $35.00 Dinner at City Café

Turley
2001 Zinfandel
Pesenti Vineyard Paso Robles
15%+ alcohol. The nose on this wine has a strong suggestion of Zinfandel grown in Provence or the Southern Rhone. Garrigue and white peppery Grenache scents are the first part of the nose, followed by some liqueur, zinberry fruit, and baking spices. Rich, sweet fruit on the palate. Pretty nice Zinfandel. $40.00 Dinner at City Café

Calvano Fattoria di Gracciano Svetoni
1999 Vino Nobile di Montelpuciano
13.5% alchol. Nice dry earth and cranberry, tangy cherry nose. Leather. A lovely, somewhat delicate nose that really had some je nais se quois for me. Medium-bodied with moderately tangy red fruit. The palate shows some similar leather and dry earth components. Nice little Vino Nobile. Does a good job of taking me back to Tuscany. $20.00

Behrens and Hitchcock
2000 Merlot
Napa Valley
15% alcohol. If this wine weren't bottled with a plastic cork, I might have said it smelled a little corky. The nose shows cork aspect, along with old wood barrels, and a sense of excess alcohol and some black cherries. The palate shows much better with moderately creamy black cherry fruit. Weighty, if not complex. Somewhat disjointed. Not very inspiring. $42.00

Cusamano
2001 Benuara
Sicila IGT Nero d'Avola Syrah
13.5% alchol. This struck me as an excellent value. Ripe plums, black fruit, a touch of roasted herb all framed in a bit of toasty oak. I was impressed. Need to retaste to elaborate on the flavors. $17.00

Mas Igneus
2000 Barranc dels Closos
Priorat
14% alcohol. A Jorge Ordonez import. The nose shows a bit of stinky horse leather initially, then some dried out fruit smells and older American oak. Medium-bodied, slightly tangy and astringent with moderated strawberry fruit. Okay, not a particularly good QPR. $17.00

Chateau Reignac
2000 Bordeaux Superieur

13% alcohol, served with seared beef tenderloin, asparagus, and baked potatoes with Gruyere cheese. The nose has a decidedly roasted character, almost akin to roasting coffee beans. Moderate to full in weight with a rather hollow center but suggestions of decent black fruits and light oak. The tannins are sweet, but the wine is still missing in the middle. Overpriced for what it is I think. $32.00

Flowers
2002 Perrenial
Red Wine California
14.3% alcohol. In the glass this looks like vibrant, translucent purple. The nose suggests tangy red cherries, cranberries, a touch of Zin-like baking spice, and a bunch of high-toned, tin-can Pinot Noir aromas. More Pinot Noir-like on the palate than I was really in the mood for. Rather like a blend of 60% Pinot with some additional moderately ripe Zinfandel blended in with a few other grapes. I assume some of this came from the Russian River Valley, as I think this is where Flowers is based. Oh well. This is not something I would buy again at this price. $25.00

Kaesler
2002 Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre
Stonehorse
15.5% alcohol. Rather tight showing for this wine. Hints of intense blackberry liqueur, cream, licorice. Retaste tonight. Second tasting the oak seemed more pronounced, along with a creosote, smoke nuance. Still an interesting wine for the money, maybe it will settle down with some time. $17.00

Las Rocas de San Alejandro
2002 Garnacha
Calatyud
Somewhat monolithic, but wonderfully chewey with thick black and red berry fruit. Full-bodied with an edge of tart cherry? Excellent value. $10.00

Elyse
1997 Syrah
Napa Valley
13.5% alcohol. What have we here? This was a pleasant surprise. The nose reminds me a bit of Cote Rotie, but it clearly is a larger-scaled wine that most Cote Roties. The nose also suggests the wine has a bit of age on it -something in the pepper-funk and Port vein of flavors. The color is mostly opaque black with some tawny shades in the light. Sweet on the attack with decent balance and plenty of sweet blackberry fruit. Fades nicely, if a bit quickly. Bought on closeout. $20.00

Darioush
2002 Viognier
Napa Valley
Okay, so maybe the last one was an off bottle. This bottle is delicious, with spicy minerals, apricot, and peach fruit. Full-bodied and a little intense-high octane. Showing well, drink up. $30.00

D'Arenberg
2001 The Laughing Magpie
McLaren Vale
Gorgeous wine - The nose wafts lovely apricot flavors intertwined beautifully with red berry liqueur. The palate is medium-to-full bodied with a nice edge of acidity to keep it interesting and a big mouthful of raspberry and blackberry fruit. Sense of retronasal complexity I didn't spend much time contemplating. Nice. $37.00

Pride Mountain
2000 Viognier
Sonoma County
The nose on this wine has gradually begun to show a bit of oak. Still carries Viognier characteristics like minerals and apricots, but in a relatively restrained manner with a nuance of orange citrus. Drink up. $40.00 Dad's 55th Birthday

Dehlinger
2000 Chardonnay
Russian River Valley
This was a bit of a surprise. Restrained, elegant French oak treatment on the nose with white fruit that seemed dominated by pears. Rich flavors, balanced with a lovely, modest, sweetness. $24.00 Dad's 55th Birthday

Spelletich Cellars
1999 Cabernet Sauvignon
Napa Valley
This was open and showing very well. Pretty raspberry and red currant fruit framed in cedar and some light new French oak. Enough tannin that it is not soft, but not enough to merit hiding these away for any length of time. Well-balanced. $40.00 Dad's 55th Birthday

Behrens and Hitchcock
2001 Syrah
Hommage to Ed Oliveira
Funky wine. Smells tannic and inky. The oak profile to me smells like a mixture of cooperage types - perhaps a large Hungarian Foudre or something with some portion of smaller barriques. Generally not much sense of new oak. Thick and a bit ponderous. Tannins. Black fruits underlying. Dark chocolate. $56.00 Dad's 55th Birthday

Zind-Humbrecht
2001 Zind
Alsace
This was a pleasant starter. Just a little bit leaning toward the sweet side with round tropical fruit intersected with guava and sweet lime. Pretty good. Dad's 55th Birthday Redux at The French Room

Allegrini
1998 La Poja
IGT Veneto
Serious disappointment here. I don't know if this might have been an off-bottle. The nose shows strong caramel notes along with burlap and a whiff of something like lime juice. Medium-full bodied, rather soft and round on the palate. More caramel. Red berry fruit. Dad's 55th Birthday Redux at The French Room

Clos Mogador
2000 Priorat
A better showing for this wine - more accessible - though I think it may have been damaged from looking at the cork. Reminds me of what a Margaux wants to be. Not new world, but showing that type of ripeness. Minerals, smoke, chcolate, black fruit. Full-bodied and quite delicious. Dad described it as the best Spanish wine he has ever had. Dad's 55th Birthday Redux at The French Room

Cheers!
James

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